🚗 Auto Loan Calculator

Dealer quotes rarely match the loan you actually sign, because sales tax, fees and your trade-in all change the amount financed. Enter the real numbers — including anything still owed on your trade — and see the true payment, total interest and total cost.

What actually determines your car payment

Four things set the payment: the amount financed, the APR, the term, and nothing else. The amount financed is where most surprises hide. It isn't the sticker price — it's:

price + sales tax + fees − cash down − trade-in equity

If you still owe more on your trade-in than it's worth, that shortfall (negative equity) gets added to the new loan. That's how people end up owing 110% of a car's value the day they drive off — this calculator flags it whenever your inputs imply it.

The trade-in sales-tax credit

In most U.S. states you pay sales tax only on price minus trade-in value. Trading in an $8,000 car against a $35,000 purchase at 7% tax saves $560 — a real, often-forgotten part of the trade-in's value when you compare it against selling privately. A handful of places (California, Virginia, Hawaii, Kentucky, Michigan above a cap, Maryland, DC) tax the full price regardless; the calculator has a toggle for both rules.

Term length: the payment trap

Dealers sell payments, not prices. Stretching a $30,000 loan at 7.5% from 60 to 84 months drops the payment from about $601 to $461 — but raises total interest from roughly $6,068 to $8,690, and keeps you underwater (owing more than the car's falling value) far longer. A useful discipline is the 20/4/10 rule: 20% down, no more than 4 years, and total vehicle costs under 10% of gross income. Check the affordability side with the car affordability calculator.

Where to actually save money

  • Get pre-approved first. A credit-union or bank pre-approval sets a rate benchmark the dealer's finance office has to beat, turning "what payment do you want?" into a price negotiation.
  • Negotiate the out-the-door price, not the monthly payment — the payment can be massaged with term length while the price quietly rises.
  • Don't roll in negative equity if you can avoid it. If you must, keep the term short so you surface from being underwater sooner, and consider GAP coverage — after checking what your insurer charges versus the dealer.
  • Skip financed add-ons. Paint protection and dealer extended warranties financed at 7%+ for years cost far more than their sticker.

Deciding between leasing and buying? Run the numbers in the lease vs buy calculator or estimate a lease payment directly with the car lease calculator. And before committing, sanity-check the ongoing running costs with the fuel cost calculator.

Frequently asked questions

What credit score do I need for a good auto loan rate?

Rates step up sharply as scores fall: prime borrowers (roughly 661+) see the advertised rates, while deep-subprime borrowers can pay 3-5x more. If your score is borderline, a co-signer or a few months of score repair often saves more than shopping ten dealerships.

Should I roll my old car loan into the new one?

Avoid it if possible — you'd be paying interest on a car you no longer own and starting the new loan underwater. If it's unavoidable, roll in as little as possible, choose a shorter term, and consider GAP coverage so a totaled car doesn't leave you paying for two.

Is 0% dealer financing really free?

Sometimes — but it usually replaces a cash rebate. If the choice is 0% APR or a $3,000 rebate, compare the interest you'd pay on a discounted loan (after the rebate) against $0 interest at full price. On smaller loans the rebate frequently wins.

How much should my down payment be?

20% is the classic target: it covers first-year depreciation so you're never underwater, lowers the payment, and often gets a better rate. At minimum, cover tax and fees in cash so you're not financing pure paperwork.

This calculator is for educational purposes only and does not constitute financial advice. Results are estimates based on the inputs and assumptions shown.